…AND TO DRINK?

The French were right all along. That was my first thought after reading the new edition of The World Atlas Of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson. There have been big changes since the 2007 edition. Wines from Croatia, Slovenia and Turkey were exotic rarities. Now they’re common in supermarkets and the best are world class. But more than this, the new edition shows a shift in attitude towards what makes a good wine. Whereas before it was assumed that the Australian model of well-known grape varieties, lots of oak and blending across regions would dominate, now worldwide the emphasis is on regional character. Every day the wine world gets more complicated – what could be more French than that? Here are some wines to drink when leafing through this lavish book.

Feteasca Regala ‘Castel Huniade’, Cramele Recas 2012, £5.99: www.adnams.co.uk
Once Romania pumped out cheap Pinot Grigio, now we are discovering its fascinating native varieties such as this one, which tastes a little like a dry Muscat from Alsace.

Bolfan Primus Riesling 2009, £11.70: www.jascots.co.uk
Tangy, toasty and spicy Riesling from Croatia. I love this.

Gusbourne Guinevere Chardonnay 2011, £21.99: www.armitwines.co.uk
A seriously good Chardonnay from England? I’d never have predicted that in 2007. This reminds me of something very expensive from Margaret River in Australia.

Kooyong ‘Haven’ Pinot Noir 2010, £36: www.thewinesociety.com
The tiny Mornington Peninsula near Melbourne now has its own page. With Pinot