BREAD… made brilliant
There’s a flaw with every bread book so far – they’ve all been written by professional bakers. This might seem logical, but it doesn’t always work out. Most are a mishmash of scaled-down commercial recipes that are too convoluted to fit in with life, or are oversimplified and unexplained betrayals of the craft’s principles. It remains a fact that home baking is on the rise, but still so few people make their own bread.
My intention is different: it is to build recipes from the ground up for the home baker, baking that can be built into busy lives taken up by jobs and children. I want to show that everyone can bake brilliant bread. World-class buns are a goal that should be in every home oven’s sights.
Grease two 500g loaf tins with butter. In a large bowl, rub together the our, yeast and salt, keeping the yeast and salt separate at either side of the bowl. Add the milk, butter and honey and combine into a wet dough.
If you’ve got the time, knead for 10-15 minutes until it passes the ‘windowpane test’ (this will result in a slightly lighter final bread): pinch off a small piece of kneaded mix and leave to rest on your fingers for a few seconds. Then, gently stretch it out using your other hand into as flat and wide a piece of dough you can. If it easily tears, it’s not done. If you can stretch it into a flat sheet that lets light shine through it when held up to the light, you’ve got a well-kneaded dough.
Cover and rest for 1-1½ hours, or until doubled in size. You can rest it in the fridge for better flavour – simply prepare the dough before going out for work or going to bed, then rest for 8-12 hours until doubled in size. Once rested, turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface. Using a knife or dough scraper, cut your dough into two if you want to make two smaller loaves. Roll each piece of dough into a batard shape (oval-shaped loaf) to go into your greased loaf tins.
Prove for a further 1 hour in the tins. Preheat your baking surface to 240C/gas 9 about 30 minutes before you’re about to bake. Bake for approx 30-35 minutes, or until golden brown on the top. Throw a cup of water on to the bottom of the oven at the beginning of the bake for extra lightness and better crust.
Time spent in the kitchen: 5-15 minutes
Time taken altogether: 2½-3½ hours
In a large bowl, rub together the flour, yeast and salt, keeping the yeast and salt separate at either side of the bowl. Add the water and combine into a coherent but wet dough.
If you’ve got time, knead for 10 or so minutes until it passes the windowpane test (see ‘Everyday’ loaf recipe, opposite).
Cover and rest for 1-1½ hours, or until doubled in size. You can rest the dough in the fridge for better flavour – simply prepare the dough before going out for work or going to bed, then rest for 8-12 hours until doubled in size.
Once rested, turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface. Using a knife or dough scraper, cut your dough into three. Shape each piece of dough into a ball.
Spread some more flour on your surface, and flatten each piece gently using the heel of your hand into a disc about 15cm across. Using your cutting implement, cut one long central score with three smaller cuts either side, in the shape of a leaf (as shown). Get your hands in and separate the sides of the cuts, making the holes much bigger – remember your dough will rise again, and you don’t want the holes closing up.
Turn upside down (floured-side up) and prove for a further 40-50 minutes on oured baking trays or tea towels, or until nearly doubled in girth. If using baking stones, preheat to 240C/gas 9 about 40 minutes before you’re about to bake. Otherwise, save energy and preheat about 20 minutes before.
Bake for approx 20-25 minutes, or until a light golden brown. This is all down to you – how crusty do you like your fougasse?
Brilliant Bread by James Morton, with photography by Andy Sewell, is published by Ebury Press, priced £20.
My intention is different: it is to build recipes from the ground up for the home baker, baking that can be built into busy lives taken up by jobs and children. I want to show that everyone can bake brilliant bread. World-class buns are a goal that should be in every home oven’s sights.
PAIN DE MIE: ‘EVERYDAY’ LOAF
Makes 2 wee pains
Time spent in the kitchen: 10-20 minutes
Time taken altogether: 2¾-3½ hours
- 500g strong white flour
- 1 x 7g sachet fast-action yeast
- 10g salt
- 330g fresh full-fat milk, at room temperature
- 20g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
- 15g runny honey
Grease two 500g loaf tins with butter. In a large bowl, rub together the our, yeast and salt, keeping the yeast and salt separate at either side of the bowl. Add the milk, butter and honey and combine into a wet dough.
If you’ve got the time, knead for 10-15 minutes until it passes the ‘windowpane test’ (this will result in a slightly lighter final bread): pinch off a small piece of kneaded mix and leave to rest on your fingers for a few seconds. Then, gently stretch it out using your other hand into as flat and wide a piece of dough you can. If it easily tears, it’s not done. If you can stretch it into a flat sheet that lets light shine through it when held up to the light, you’ve got a well-kneaded dough.
Cover and rest for 1-1½ hours, or until doubled in size. You can rest it in the fridge for better flavour – simply prepare the dough before going out for work or going to bed, then rest for 8-12 hours until doubled in size. Once rested, turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface. Using a knife or dough scraper, cut your dough into two if you want to make two smaller loaves. Roll each piece of dough into a batard shape (oval-shaped loaf) to go into your greased loaf tins.
Prove for a further 1 hour in the tins. Preheat your baking surface to 240C/gas 9 about 30 minutes before you’re about to bake. Bake for approx 30-35 minutes, or until golden brown on the top. Throw a cup of water on to the bottom of the oven at the beginning of the bake for extra lightness and better crust.
FOUGASSE (pictured top)
Makes 4 wee fougassesTime spent in the kitchen: 5-15 minutes
Time taken altogether: 2½-3½ hours
- 350g strong white flour
- 1 x 7g sachet fast-action yeast
- 7g salt (or 1 heaped teaspoon)
- 250g tepid water
In a large bowl, rub together the flour, yeast and salt, keeping the yeast and salt separate at either side of the bowl. Add the water and combine into a coherent but wet dough.
If you’ve got time, knead for 10 or so minutes until it passes the windowpane test (see ‘Everyday’ loaf recipe, opposite).
Cover and rest for 1-1½ hours, or until doubled in size. You can rest the dough in the fridge for better flavour – simply prepare the dough before going out for work or going to bed, then rest for 8-12 hours until doubled in size.
Once rested, turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface. Using a knife or dough scraper, cut your dough into three. Shape each piece of dough into a ball.
Spread some more flour on your surface, and flatten each piece gently using the heel of your hand into a disc about 15cm across. Using your cutting implement, cut one long central score with three smaller cuts either side, in the shape of a leaf (as shown). Get your hands in and separate the sides of the cuts, making the holes much bigger – remember your dough will rise again, and you don’t want the holes closing up.
Turn upside down (floured-side up) and prove for a further 40-50 minutes on oured baking trays or tea towels, or until nearly doubled in girth. If using baking stones, preheat to 240C/gas 9 about 40 minutes before you’re about to bake. Otherwise, save energy and preheat about 20 minutes before.
Bake for approx 20-25 minutes, or until a light golden brown. This is all down to you – how crusty do you like your fougasse?
Brilliant Bread by James Morton, with photography by Andy Sewell, is published by Ebury Press, priced £20.