Chocolate Perfection With Michel Roux Jr.

Chocolate-making with Michel Roux Jr serves up some rare gems
Ben-Felsenberg-176There can be no denying it, given the mountain range of plastic wrappers piled up around my desk: I'm a chocoholic. At least I thought I was until I watched Michel Roux Jr's paean to the delicacy the Aztecs considered the food of the gods (Chocolate Perfection With Michel Roux Jr. BBC Four, Monday, 9pm). The curiously whippet-thin chef is seeking out the finest chocolate, and somehow his definition of the best excludes the bars I've cherished since childhood. In fact he's passing up entirely on not only Britain but also Belgium and even Switzerland. Only France, it seems, is worthy of a visit for the true chocolate lover. ! cynics might offer as his distinctly Gallic mother Monique shares her recipe secrets. But in truth there's no argument: Roux tempts us with sweet dreams that you won't find anywhere else in the world as he pays pilgrimage to the chocolatiers of Lyons and Paris. Their chocolates are crafted and tweaked to perfection, for these veritable artists combine the culinary skills of the finest restaurant chefs with the delicate palate of an elite vintner (the different beans from Java, Colombia and Madagascar are evaluated with the loving reverence a selection of Bordeaux grapes might merit). Plus there's the damnably unanswerable of French style: behold the catwalk-worthy wonder that is the entirely edible stiletto shoe. The chocolatiers sell their rare delicacies in elegant shops in which the glass shelves and counters resemble those of a jeweller's. Le grand scoff-out is not an option at these prices.

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