Passion For Fashion: 300 Years of Style at Blenheim Palace
Blenheim Palace, the enormous Oxfordshire ‘home’ of the Dukes of Marlborough, has a special connection with fashion. In the long library, two landmark fashion shows by Christian Dior were staged in the 1950s, and another one, very different, last year. Passion for Fashion is an engaging, intimate and imaginative exhibit that greatly enhances the presentation of the formidable state rooms.
Dior has to be the main draw, whose luxury, artistry and elegance lives in the modern memory unlike any other designer. The stunning pink evening ensemble (although not classically new look) was actually shown in the same room at Blenheim in 1953, in the presence of Princess Margaret. For all its sumptuous embroidery and delicious creamy pink duchesse satin, this outfit is disciplined, restrained and grown-up. Another diaphanous orange creation (Dior tailoring organza!) was lent through the exhibition curator’s chance viewing of antiques roadshow. It is displayed casually draped on a chair, with its original box on a table behind.
Associated film footage and written material acts as social history. The 1950s Dior shows were society events in the presence of royalty, with classical organ music, whereas in 2016, rock music blared and celebrities lined the catwalk.
The rest of the show wittily celebrates Blenheim’s historic associations over the centuries. Louis XIV, the 1st Duke’s great enemy, was obsessed with shoes. His portrait hangs in the second state room and below is a fine display of historical footwear. At Versailles, red heels indicated elevated status – a tradition carried on today by Louboutin, whose Marie Antoinette extravaganza, with its trademark red sole, is on view here.
The Marlboroughs married the Spencers and, over the years, there has been more than one Diana Spencer. Another room is devoted to them, with the most recent and famous to the fore. The second version of her ‘revenge dress’ – not the one famously worn at the Serpentine Gallery in 1994 – looms large.
Further rooms feature Blenheim servants’ liveries (tassels, loops and lovely stuff – melton, it’s called) and nightmare undergarments including wooden stay busks for corsets (imagine having fat rulers shoved down the front of your frock) and Mr Darcy’s breeches, as worn by Colin Firth (classed as an undergarment by virtue of his not having his coat on at the time). There’s also a cane hat belonging to Queen Anne, and a creepy-looking hood, called a calash, for protecting one’swig. On that subject, there is gruesome detail, such as lice scrapers. It’s intriguing to learn that the black patches 18th- century ladies applied to their faces weren’t just to generate mole fascination but could be changed according to mood, rather like today’s smiley faces. A fashion ripe for revival, surely.
Until 23 April at The State Rooms, Blenheim Palace, Woodstock, Oxfordshire: 01993-810530, www.blenheimpalace.com/whats-on
Associated film footage and written material acts as social history. The 1950s Dior shows were society events in the presence of royalty, with classical organ music, whereas in 2016, rock music blared and celebrities lined the catwalk.
The rest of the show wittily celebrates Blenheim’s historic associations over the centuries. Louis XIV, the 1st Duke’s great enemy, was obsessed with shoes. His portrait hangs in the second state room and below is a fine display of historical footwear. At Versailles, red heels indicated elevated status – a tradition carried on today by Louboutin, whose Marie Antoinette extravaganza, with its trademark red sole, is on view here.
The Marlboroughs married the Spencers and, over the years, there has been more than one Diana Spencer. Another room is devoted to them, with the most recent and famous to the fore. The second version of her ‘revenge dress’ – not the one famously worn at the Serpentine Gallery in 1994 – looms large.
Further rooms feature Blenheim servants’ liveries (tassels, loops and lovely stuff – melton, it’s called) and nightmare undergarments including wooden stay busks for corsets (imagine having fat rulers shoved down the front of your frock) and Mr Darcy’s breeches, as worn by Colin Firth (classed as an undergarment by virtue of his not having his coat on at the time). There’s also a cane hat belonging to Queen Anne, and a creepy-looking hood, called a calash, for protecting one’swig. On that subject, there is gruesome detail, such as lice scrapers. It’s intriguing to learn that the black patches 18th- century ladies applied to their faces weren’t just to generate mole fascination but could be changed according to mood, rather like today’s smiley faces. A fashion ripe for revival, surely.
Until 23 April at The State Rooms, Blenheim Palace, Woodstock, Oxfordshire: 01993-810530, www.blenheimpalace.com/whats-on