Review: Ametsa With Arzak Instruction
Walking into Ametsa With Arzak Instruction, the first thing I noticed was that the floor is slightly off-kilter. Having yet to be handed my champagne aperitif, I was certain my eyes weren’t swindling me, and on enquiry I learnt that it is in fact at a 30 degree angle. Why?
‘Oh there is no reason,’ said our (rather suave) waiter, ‘it is simply part of the design.’
This – it turns out – is a good way to sum up Ametsa With Arzak Instruction. From the curious name, to the quirky yet elegant interior, to the finely assembled food, everything is delivered with a real flair for aesthetics.
On a moderately busy Thursday night, my friend and I opted for the tasting menu. At £105 a head, this is fairly typical for upmarket London eateries who aim to offer an eating experience. Not only are you staving off hunger, you’re becoming part of your own culinary show.
And at Ametsa, the props (i.e. food) are colourful and players (i.e waiters) well-rehearsed. Our first course of aperitivos were quickly delivered. The rice with fish mousse was particularly delectable, at once creamy and salty, smooth and crisp. Award for the loudest dish must go to the chorizo with mango, which was served on what can only be describe a bubbling, squealing mini Jacuzzi. It is most likely a gimic, but one which sets a tone of adventure which pervades the rest of the courses.
Tender scallops followed, which were accompanied by an even more tender sheet of betacarotene. This, as hinted in the name, a little bit sweet and a little bit carroty, and encased a salad of Chelsea Flower Show-rivalling beauty. The king prawns with sweetcorn were hearty, and topped with what I think were deep-fried rice noodles (I more of less inhaled them before I could ask). The ‘From Egg To Chicken’ dish is an interesting idea - you break open a poached egg and swirl it in the chickeny broth mixture – but my least favourite in terms of flavour.
The monkfish was densely textured and again arranged very prettily with a sheet of red onion (it seems Ametsa love cultivating sheets of vegetable), while the lamb with macchiato was particularly fragrant paring.
Ametsa’s love of the dramatic really comes into its own, however, with the puddings. The moonrocks (added to our tasting menu by special request) have more than a little Heston about them. Without wanting to give too much away – their appeal really lies in the surprise – their combination of chocolate, liqueur and orange is quite the culinary feat. My dining partner was especially taken by the French toast with mango and coconut, while I loved the strawberry bubbles. With a little help from some dry ice, the strawberry milkshake-esque mixture comes down on the surrounding fruit salad like lava. Great fun to watch, and delicious to boot.
The petit fours which round off the meal are almost another course in themself. The truffles were smooth, the macaroons sweet, and the traffic light chocolates striking.
With Ametsa With Arzak Instruction, the Basque cuisine made famous by the parent restaurant in San Sebastian is given a London twist: it’s varied, fun and idiosyncratic. It is does what any satisfying meal should do: leaves you very full indeed. Happily, the angled floor is there to help you roll home.
www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa
‘Oh there is no reason,’ said our (rather suave) waiter, ‘it is simply part of the design.’
This – it turns out – is a good way to sum up Ametsa With Arzak Instruction. From the curious name, to the quirky yet elegant interior, to the finely assembled food, everything is delivered with a real flair for aesthetics.
On a moderately busy Thursday night, my friend and I opted for the tasting menu. At £105 a head, this is fairly typical for upmarket London eateries who aim to offer an eating experience. Not only are you staving off hunger, you’re becoming part of your own culinary show.
And at Ametsa, the props (i.e. food) are colourful and players (i.e waiters) well-rehearsed. Our first course of aperitivos were quickly delivered. The rice with fish mousse was particularly delectable, at once creamy and salty, smooth and crisp. Award for the loudest dish must go to the chorizo with mango, which was served on what can only be describe a bubbling, squealing mini Jacuzzi. It is most likely a gimic, but one which sets a tone of adventure which pervades the rest of the courses.
Tender scallops followed, which were accompanied by an even more tender sheet of betacarotene. This, as hinted in the name, a little bit sweet and a little bit carroty, and encased a salad of Chelsea Flower Show-rivalling beauty. The king prawns with sweetcorn were hearty, and topped with what I think were deep-fried rice noodles (I more of less inhaled them before I could ask). The ‘From Egg To Chicken’ dish is an interesting idea - you break open a poached egg and swirl it in the chickeny broth mixture – but my least favourite in terms of flavour.
The monkfish was densely textured and again arranged very prettily with a sheet of red onion (it seems Ametsa love cultivating sheets of vegetable), while the lamb with macchiato was particularly fragrant paring.
Ametsa’s love of the dramatic really comes into its own, however, with the puddings. The moonrocks (added to our tasting menu by special request) have more than a little Heston about them. Without wanting to give too much away – their appeal really lies in the surprise – their combination of chocolate, liqueur and orange is quite the culinary feat. My dining partner was especially taken by the French toast with mango and coconut, while I loved the strawberry bubbles. With a little help from some dry ice, the strawberry milkshake-esque mixture comes down on the surrounding fruit salad like lava. Great fun to watch, and delicious to boot.
The petit fours which round off the meal are almost another course in themself. The truffles were smooth, the macaroons sweet, and the traffic light chocolates striking.
With Ametsa With Arzak Instruction, the Basque cuisine made famous by the parent restaurant in San Sebastian is given a London twist: it’s varied, fun and idiosyncratic. It is does what any satisfying meal should do: leaves you very full indeed. Happily, the angled floor is there to help you roll home.
www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa