Review: Boqueria

Food with real Spanish flair
Boqueria is named after Barcelona’s famous food market. Whereas the latter is a sprawling, frenetic, rambunctious place, the restaurant is a decidedly sleek affair in London’s up-and-coming Clapham. Word of mouth spreads quickly in London’s foodie scene and since winning one of TimeOut’s coveted awards, those in search of tapas have been flocking to this new-ish establishment. We went on a Wednesday evening and the place was brimming.

The staff are friendly, the décor smart without being showy, and the atmosphere is very much friends-catching-up. Unlike the no-reservations small-plate eateries in Central London, Boqueria does not have an ounce of pretension, which greatly increases its appeal.
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And that’s before you even get to the food. The already extensive menu is supplemented by a regularly changing set of specials which are scribbled enthusiastically on a large blackboard. Those expecting mainstream Spanish fare will not be disappointed – there is chorizo, calamari and cured ham aplenty – but the restaurant also displays a real passion for food with more experimental dishes. The suckling pig was a case in point. Juicy, tender meat with crunchy crackling was complemented by a thrilling side of lemon sorbet (trust us, it works). The cod loin was soft, flaky and salty, while the delicious tomato bread was simple but a testament to power of fresh ingredients. The traditional Spanish tortilla is also a must try: a little bit rich and a little bit stodgy, it’s Spanish comfort food at its finest.

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We ordered six of the sharing plates between two, which was more than enough. We were, however, determined to see if the impressiveness extended to the pudding menu. If you ask nicely, you can opt for a tapas like approach to these too, receiving bite-size portions of a selection of the sweet offerings. The triple chocolate tart is as decadent as it sounds, while the cinnamon-dusted fried milk cubes are also a must-try.

Boqueria’s wine menu features a dazzling array of Spanish bottles, along with smattering of Cava. Our waiter, Alphonso, selected a Sauvignon Blanc which was as light and fruity as you would expect, and a good accompaniment to the variety of dishes. The staff our keen to share their passion for the Spanish grape, so it’s worth asking for their recommendations.
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With dishes ranging from £2 to £9, you leave thoroughly replete but with a pocket full of change. Boqueria is bound to become a firm foodie favourite. It’s much closer than Barcelona, too.

www.boqueriatapas.co.uk