Review: Gillray's Steakhouse & Bar
Gillray’s claims to be home to London’s best steak. With the likes of Hawksmoor, Goodman’s and Gaucho catering to the masses just over the river, this is a bold statement.
Unlike the aforementioned steak establishments, Gillray’s is housed in a hotel. The imposing Marriott Hotel County Hall does lend a rather stately air to the place but it also means that the restaurant is somewhat hidden. In fact, unless you know it’s there, there’s no way you’re going to stumble into it from the street.
It is perhaps for this reason that the restaurant was half empty when I and a steak-obsessed friend visited mid-week. The gloriously high ceilings and heavy wooden tables are poised to accommodate dense crowds; as it was, atmosphere was rather thin, but service was wonderfully attentive.
Gillray’s do gin cocktails exceptionally well. We paused in the bar (which feels a little bit like a gentleman’s club, with incongrous yellow furniture) to indulge. My friend’s was long and sweet, while my GLC (plum-infused vodka, fresh lemon and ginger) was just the right amount of bitter.
Moving into the restaurant, where we enjoyed a view of river, we were immediately presented with Gillray’s version of the bread basket. Rather than the requisite rolls, this comprised crisp Yorkshire puddings with melted cheese in the middle. As a devout Yorkshire pudding fan, these were a welcome welcome (as it were) and surprisingly light.
Our starters of scallops with black pudding and ham fritters were generous in portion and while my friend considered the latter to be a little bland, I found mine to be a good balance of saltiness and richness.
Both dishes, however, paled in comparison to the main event. Our steaks (I had a fillet, my friend the porterhouse) were cooked to perfection: seared to bring out the flavour whilst retaining that essential bloodiness which keeps them juicy and tender. The Aberdeen Angus beef, which is predominantly grass-fed, is some of the most flavoursome meat around. They really couldn’t be faulted. We both enjoyed a portion of Old Winchester Chips which with cheese and truffle oil, which were an indulgent and hearty side.
No steak meal is complete without a glass of red wine, and our 2010 Blackstone Merlot was a wise recommendation from our waitress. It was fruity enough to bring out the nuances of the steak, but not so heavy as to weigh it down.
My friend opted for the cheese board to end which came with slices of fresh fruit – a simple yet refreshing addition. My flourless chocolate cake, comprising around 95% Valrhona chocolate, was anything but refreshing. Essentially an incredibly dense chocolate mousse, it was nonetheless a delicious end to a decadent meal.
We came away completely full and completely satisfied (which are not always the same thing). Like many hotel eateries, Gillray’s perhaps lacks the palpable personality of destination restaurants (I always consider Hawksmoor as a bit of a slick businessman, while Gaucho is a more flamboyant party type) but the food is strong enough to speak for itself.
In fact, I find myself agreeing with their audacious claim after all. Make a point of delving into the Marriott to find Gillray’s – you’d be hard pushed to find a better steak this side of Argentina.
www.gillrays.com
Unlike the aforementioned steak establishments, Gillray’s is housed in a hotel. The imposing Marriott Hotel County Hall does lend a rather stately air to the place but it also means that the restaurant is somewhat hidden. In fact, unless you know it’s there, there’s no way you’re going to stumble into it from the street.
It is perhaps for this reason that the restaurant was half empty when I and a steak-obsessed friend visited mid-week. The gloriously high ceilings and heavy wooden tables are poised to accommodate dense crowds; as it was, atmosphere was rather thin, but service was wonderfully attentive.
Gillray’s do gin cocktails exceptionally well. We paused in the bar (which feels a little bit like a gentleman’s club, with incongrous yellow furniture) to indulge. My friend’s was long and sweet, while my GLC (plum-infused vodka, fresh lemon and ginger) was just the right amount of bitter.
Moving into the restaurant, where we enjoyed a view of river, we were immediately presented with Gillray’s version of the bread basket. Rather than the requisite rolls, this comprised crisp Yorkshire puddings with melted cheese in the middle. As a devout Yorkshire pudding fan, these were a welcome welcome (as it were) and surprisingly light.
Our starters of scallops with black pudding and ham fritters were generous in portion and while my friend considered the latter to be a little bland, I found mine to be a good balance of saltiness and richness.
Both dishes, however, paled in comparison to the main event. Our steaks (I had a fillet, my friend the porterhouse) were cooked to perfection: seared to bring out the flavour whilst retaining that essential bloodiness which keeps them juicy and tender. The Aberdeen Angus beef, which is predominantly grass-fed, is some of the most flavoursome meat around. They really couldn’t be faulted. We both enjoyed a portion of Old Winchester Chips which with cheese and truffle oil, which were an indulgent and hearty side.
No steak meal is complete without a glass of red wine, and our 2010 Blackstone Merlot was a wise recommendation from our waitress. It was fruity enough to bring out the nuances of the steak, but not so heavy as to weigh it down.
My friend opted for the cheese board to end which came with slices of fresh fruit – a simple yet refreshing addition. My flourless chocolate cake, comprising around 95% Valrhona chocolate, was anything but refreshing. Essentially an incredibly dense chocolate mousse, it was nonetheless a delicious end to a decadent meal.
We came away completely full and completely satisfied (which are not always the same thing). Like many hotel eateries, Gillray’s perhaps lacks the palpable personality of destination restaurants (I always consider Hawksmoor as a bit of a slick businessman, while Gaucho is a more flamboyant party type) but the food is strong enough to speak for itself.
In fact, I find myself agreeing with their audacious claim after all. Make a point of delving into the Marriott to find Gillray’s – you’d be hard pushed to find a better steak this side of Argentina.
www.gillrays.com