Review: Kaspar's Seafood Bar & Grill
History is a quality which can’t be simulated, and The Savoy has it in spades. Walking to the grand lobby of this hotel, you are immediately hit by the sense of decades' worth of glamour, hedonism and hushed-up scandal. Along with the chintzy décor, it’s a seductive combination.
Kaspar’s Seafood Bar & Grill, the newly-opened eatery situated on the river side of the hotel, has been created with the past firmly in mind. The monochrome floor is the original, the windows listed, and the furniture (if not genuine antiques) are carefully selected to create an art deco vibe. Kaspar’s also has dim lighting down to perfection – it’s soft enough to create a mood, but not so dark that you struggle to see your food.
As suggested by the name, the seafood is what draws guests and visitors alike to this particular restaurant (and incidentally, on the night we visited, one very famous man and his partner were sat on the adjacent table, enhancing that glamour vibe nicely). Kaspar’s lobster club sandwich has been voted one of the top dishes in London, and my guest and I, already buoyed by a refreshing Tom Collins from the bar, decided to go big and share one for a starter. Three slices of lightly toasted sourdough are stacked with ample fillings of creamy lobster and avocado, accompanied by a side of salty fries. It is essentially a really, really good sandwich. Admittedly, for £25 it should be, but it feels delightfully indulgent to eat comfort food in such elegant surroundings.
Our other starter, the tuna tartare, seemed very light by comparison. Silky, fragrantly-flavoured yellow fin tuna is served with very thin, crisp bread, avocado and a dollop of crème fraiche, which is a gratifying combination of textures.
We decided to stick to the seafood theme for our mains (which range from £15 to £45 for the full seafood platter), opting for monkfish kebabs and dover sole. The meatiness of the monkfish was amped up by a chargrilled flavour, while the dover sole was served simply in a caper butter sauce. They seem to have a limitless supply of crockery at Kaspar’s – each dish was served on an entirely different sort of plate. It may seem a moot point, but there is something about mismatched tableware (rather than the ubiquitous oversized white plates) with dispels pretension.
Our waiters, too, were devoted to making us feel welcome. Not only did they answer our plethora of questions about the hotel (apparently when they start, they are all given a book on the hotel so are well-versed), they were delighted to make recommendations and even indulge in a bit of banter about our choices. Getting a playful bit of shtick from your waiter adds a surprisingly jovial tone to the proceedings.
After a homely rhubarb crumble and a more showy chocolate sphere – both well-executed yet not too sweet – we moved into the Beaufort Bar for a final drink, and here is where the sumptuous atmosphere of The Savoy really comes into its own. Live music, provided by a man in a trilby and a woman in a sensational Jessica Rabbit dress, provide a moody background for the cocktails. Sipping on a rich and delicious ‘The Association’ cocktail, basking in the muted light, it is easy to understand why the hotel is a host of discreet liaisons, secrets and deals.
One thing that should not remain secret, however, is that lobster club sandwich. It is not trying to challenge your taste buds, and I applaud that. It’s just darn tasty. I shall certainly be back to indulge (and partake in a little bit of history while I’m at it).
www.kaspars.co.uk
Kaspar’s Seafood Bar & Grill, the newly-opened eatery situated on the river side of the hotel, has been created with the past firmly in mind. The monochrome floor is the original, the windows listed, and the furniture (if not genuine antiques) are carefully selected to create an art deco vibe. Kaspar’s also has dim lighting down to perfection – it’s soft enough to create a mood, but not so dark that you struggle to see your food.
As suggested by the name, the seafood is what draws guests and visitors alike to this particular restaurant (and incidentally, on the night we visited, one very famous man and his partner were sat on the adjacent table, enhancing that glamour vibe nicely). Kaspar’s lobster club sandwich has been voted one of the top dishes in London, and my guest and I, already buoyed by a refreshing Tom Collins from the bar, decided to go big and share one for a starter. Three slices of lightly toasted sourdough are stacked with ample fillings of creamy lobster and avocado, accompanied by a side of salty fries. It is essentially a really, really good sandwich. Admittedly, for £25 it should be, but it feels delightfully indulgent to eat comfort food in such elegant surroundings.
Our other starter, the tuna tartare, seemed very light by comparison. Silky, fragrantly-flavoured yellow fin tuna is served with very thin, crisp bread, avocado and a dollop of crème fraiche, which is a gratifying combination of textures.
We decided to stick to the seafood theme for our mains (which range from £15 to £45 for the full seafood platter), opting for monkfish kebabs and dover sole. The meatiness of the monkfish was amped up by a chargrilled flavour, while the dover sole was served simply in a caper butter sauce. They seem to have a limitless supply of crockery at Kaspar’s – each dish was served on an entirely different sort of plate. It may seem a moot point, but there is something about mismatched tableware (rather than the ubiquitous oversized white plates) with dispels pretension.
Our waiters, too, were devoted to making us feel welcome. Not only did they answer our plethora of questions about the hotel (apparently when they start, they are all given a book on the hotel so are well-versed), they were delighted to make recommendations and even indulge in a bit of banter about our choices. Getting a playful bit of shtick from your waiter adds a surprisingly jovial tone to the proceedings.
After a homely rhubarb crumble and a more showy chocolate sphere – both well-executed yet not too sweet – we moved into the Beaufort Bar for a final drink, and here is where the sumptuous atmosphere of The Savoy really comes into its own. Live music, provided by a man in a trilby and a woman in a sensational Jessica Rabbit dress, provide a moody background for the cocktails. Sipping on a rich and delicious ‘The Association’ cocktail, basking in the muted light, it is easy to understand why the hotel is a host of discreet liaisons, secrets and deals.
One thing that should not remain secret, however, is that lobster club sandwich. It is not trying to challenge your taste buds, and I applaud that. It’s just darn tasty. I shall certainly be back to indulge (and partake in a little bit of history while I’m at it).
www.kaspars.co.uk