Review: Seven Park Place
I have never met William Drabble so cannot comment on his character, but having visited his restaurant, I am certain he has a charming sense of humour.
His name almost makes him sounds like a character from Alice in Wonderland (and I mean that in the most positive sense) and Seven Park Place is itself a wonderland of sorts. It is a quirky explosion of colours, patterns and textures, with shadows falling in all the right places around the select number of tables. It perhaps not the kind of place you would expect to find in the traditional environs of St James’ Hotel and Club, which makes it all the more enchanting.
Drabble has accumulated a veritable constellation of Michelin stars during his career (which includes spells as Sous Chef to Tom Aikens at Pied à Terre) so expectations were very high as my friend and I sat down at the bar for a welcome drink. Our pretty cocktails were complemented by a few light bar snacks – the usual olives and roasted nuts, along with a curious cone of sweet ‘n’salty popcorn. This cinema snack must be the culinary equivalent of shabby-chic, and like most fast food, it was dangerously moreish. We had devoured our second cone by the time we were called to our table.
We opted for the tasting menu which, at £72 per head (£123 with wine pairings) imbues the proceedings with a sense of occasion. This sense of specialness is heightened by the surroundings – there are only 26 covers and no background music, so there is nothing but the quiet hum of intimate conversation to listen to. Such a sedate atmosphere is quite at odds with the vibrant interiors, but it makes for very relaxing dining.
Our meal kicked off with seared foie gras, which was astonishly light, it’s richness cut perfectly by the sweetness of roasted pear. We were treated to a glass of a 2011 Coteaux-Du-Layon Saint-Aubin which was almost like a dessert wine, amping up the syrupy nature of the dish. Our tastebuds truly awakened, the courses of scallops lobster which followed were firm yet tender in textured, accompanied by celeriac and cauliflower puree respectively. Puree is a stalwart of culinary creativity, although it is strangely divisive in its effect. Some loathe the resemblance to baby food, others exult in its smoothness. I fall firmly into the latter camp, especially at Seven Park Place. Never have pulverized vegetables tasted so decadent.
After two tasting glasses of very dry Anjou Blanc and Pinot Grigio, the 2010 New Zealand Pinot Noir ‘Village’ which complemented the griddled seabass was especially velvety on the palate. The fish was typically meaty, and the creamed leeks, mushrooms and red wine sauce were all at once salty, buttery and fragrant. Drabble is known for his championing of seasonal ingredients and we were quickly coming to realise that pureed, creamed or otherwise, he certainly makes the most of his botanical components.
That is not to discount the quality of the animal fare, however. The saddle of Lune Valley lamb was melt-in-the-mouth, its succulence immediately conjuring images of rolling hills and healthy country air. The little dish – as delicate in size as those which preceded it- managed to be both showy and hearty. The 2011 Ribera Del Duero, full-bodied and weighty, also felt as though it should be sipped in front of a roaring fire somewhere in the earthy depths of the country.
The cheeseboard was as many cheeseboards are – tasty, but something which anyone with a knife and an oat biscuit could recreate at home. The pudding, on the other hand, was quite a feat. Caramelized banana and caramelized milk – which was essentially a thrilling splodge of dulche de leche – was topped off with a lighter-than-light banana parfait. My friend found it all a bit too saccharine but I have an insatiable sweet tooth and could have eaten his serving, mine and the tables’ next to us quite happily.
Despite the seven courses (and unseemly amount of popcorn before), we finished our meal and were not stuffed. As our attentive waiter cleared our last course, he asked if we had enjoyed our dinner. ‘I think our clean plates tell the story,’ responded my friend. From degustation to drinks to decorative interiors, everything is ripe for devouring at William Drabble’s wonderland.
www.stjameshotelandclub.com/restaurant-piccadilly
His name almost makes him sounds like a character from Alice in Wonderland (and I mean that in the most positive sense) and Seven Park Place is itself a wonderland of sorts. It is a quirky explosion of colours, patterns and textures, with shadows falling in all the right places around the select number of tables. It perhaps not the kind of place you would expect to find in the traditional environs of St James’ Hotel and Club, which makes it all the more enchanting.
Drabble has accumulated a veritable constellation of Michelin stars during his career (which includes spells as Sous Chef to Tom Aikens at Pied à Terre) so expectations were very high as my friend and I sat down at the bar for a welcome drink. Our pretty cocktails were complemented by a few light bar snacks – the usual olives and roasted nuts, along with a curious cone of sweet ‘n’salty popcorn. This cinema snack must be the culinary equivalent of shabby-chic, and like most fast food, it was dangerously moreish. We had devoured our second cone by the time we were called to our table.
We opted for the tasting menu which, at £72 per head (£123 with wine pairings) imbues the proceedings with a sense of occasion. This sense of specialness is heightened by the surroundings – there are only 26 covers and no background music, so there is nothing but the quiet hum of intimate conversation to listen to. Such a sedate atmosphere is quite at odds with the vibrant interiors, but it makes for very relaxing dining.
Our meal kicked off with seared foie gras, which was astonishly light, it’s richness cut perfectly by the sweetness of roasted pear. We were treated to a glass of a 2011 Coteaux-Du-Layon Saint-Aubin which was almost like a dessert wine, amping up the syrupy nature of the dish. Our tastebuds truly awakened, the courses of scallops lobster which followed were firm yet tender in textured, accompanied by celeriac and cauliflower puree respectively. Puree is a stalwart of culinary creativity, although it is strangely divisive in its effect. Some loathe the resemblance to baby food, others exult in its smoothness. I fall firmly into the latter camp, especially at Seven Park Place. Never have pulverized vegetables tasted so decadent.
After two tasting glasses of very dry Anjou Blanc and Pinot Grigio, the 2010 New Zealand Pinot Noir ‘Village’ which complemented the griddled seabass was especially velvety on the palate. The fish was typically meaty, and the creamed leeks, mushrooms and red wine sauce were all at once salty, buttery and fragrant. Drabble is known for his championing of seasonal ingredients and we were quickly coming to realise that pureed, creamed or otherwise, he certainly makes the most of his botanical components.
That is not to discount the quality of the animal fare, however. The saddle of Lune Valley lamb was melt-in-the-mouth, its succulence immediately conjuring images of rolling hills and healthy country air. The little dish – as delicate in size as those which preceded it- managed to be both showy and hearty. The 2011 Ribera Del Duero, full-bodied and weighty, also felt as though it should be sipped in front of a roaring fire somewhere in the earthy depths of the country.
The cheeseboard was as many cheeseboards are – tasty, but something which anyone with a knife and an oat biscuit could recreate at home. The pudding, on the other hand, was quite a feat. Caramelized banana and caramelized milk – which was essentially a thrilling splodge of dulche de leche – was topped off with a lighter-than-light banana parfait. My friend found it all a bit too saccharine but I have an insatiable sweet tooth and could have eaten his serving, mine and the tables’ next to us quite happily.
Despite the seven courses (and unseemly amount of popcorn before), we finished our meal and were not stuffed. As our attentive waiter cleared our last course, he asked if we had enjoyed our dinner. ‘I think our clean plates tell the story,’ responded my friend. From degustation to drinks to decorative interiors, everything is ripe for devouring at William Drabble’s wonderland.
www.stjameshotelandclub.com/restaurant-piccadilly