Seafood made simple

Serving up seafood isn’t tricky, says chef Nathan Outlaw, and his recipes show just how easy it is to cook

Pickled mackerel with red cabbage, apple and cider (pictured above)

Serves four

4 very fresh mackerel, filleted and pin-boned
1 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 
½ red cabbage, outer leaves removed, thinly sliced 
2 Braeburn apples, peeled and grated
Sea salt

For the pickling liquor
200ml cider vinegar 
200ml cider 
50g caster sugar 
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed 
2 thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves

For the salad cream
2 egg yolks
1 tsp English mustard 
2 tsp caster sugar
2 tbsp cider vinegar
2 tbsp cider 
350ml olive oil
50ml double cream
2 tbsp dill leaves, chopped, plus extra sprigs to garnish

For the pickling liquor, put all the ingredients into a pan and heat to dissolve the sugar, then bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for two minutes. Add a pinch of salt.

Lay the mackerel fillets side by side in a dish that holds them snugly in one layer. Pour on the pickling liquor and cover with cling film, pushing it down on to the surface to keep everything submerged. Leave to stand for two hours: the fish will effectively ‘cook’ in the liquor.

Meanwhile, heat a small frying pan and add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the red onion and sweat for two to three minutes. Season with salt and transfer the onion to a tray to cool.

To make the salad cream, put the egg yolks, mustard, sugar, cider vinegar and cider into a bowl and whisk together for one minute. Now gradually add the olive oil until it is all incorporated. To finish, slowly whisk in the cream and season with salt to taste. Transfer to a bowl and stir through the chopped dill. Cover and refrigerate until required.

To serve, combine the onion, red cabbage and apples in a bowl. Mix well and season with salt to taste.

Remove the mackerel fillets from the pickle. Spoon some salad cream on to each of four plates and pile the red cabbage mixture into the centre. Arrange the mackerel fillets on top. Add a sprinkle of sea salt and finish with a few dill sprigs.

Pan-fried scallops, creamed chicory, orange and tarragon dressing

Serves four as a starter or light lunch

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16–20 fresh scallops, shelled and cleaned (roes retained if in good condition) 
Olive oil for cooking 
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the chicory
2 chicory heads, outer leaves removed, shredded 
50ml olive oil
75g unsalted butter
30g caster sugar 
1 white onion, peeled and finely sliced
Finely grated zest and juice of ½ orange 
150ml double cream

For the orange and tarragon dressing 
1 orange
8 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

To finish
3 tsp chopped tarragon

For the chicory, heat a large frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the olive oil, butter and sugar. When hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for two minutes. Now add the chicory and cook for two minutes, turning from time to time.

Turn the heat down under the chicory to medium and add the orange zest and juice. Let the juice bubble away, then add the cream. Bring to a simmer and let simmer for five minutes. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, for the dressing, cut the peel and pith from the orange and cut out the segments from the membranes over a bowl to catch any juice. Slice the orange segments and place in a bowl with the extra virgin olive oil and some salt and pepper. Set aside.

To cook the scallops, heat a non-stick pan until very hot. Season the scallops with salt and drizzle some olive oil into the pan. Carefully place the scallops in the pan, one by one, remembering where you placed the first one. Turn the heat down to medium and cook for two minutes.

Now flip the scallops over in the same order you placed them in the pan and cook for a further minute. Take the pan off the heat and allow the scallops to finish cooking in the residual heat. To serve, warm up the creamed chicory if need be, then taste and correct the seasoning. Divide the chicory between four warmed plates or shallow bowls and top each serving with four or five scallops. Add a good drizzle of orange dressing and sprinkle with the chopped tarragon. Serve warm.

John Dory, shaved asparagus, chilli and orange salad

Serves 4 

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4 John Dory, about 500g each, gutted, filleted and skinned 
2 red onions, peeled 
16 asparagus spears, woody parts removed 
4 red chillies, halved, deseeded and thinly sliced 
1 orange 
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the dressing 
4 tbsp verjus 
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp honey 
2 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped 
2 tbsp mint leaves, chopped

Preheat the grill to high, ready to cook the fish.

Using a mandoline if you have one, slice the red onions and asparagus as thinly as possible and place in a large bowl with the sliced chillies. Finely grate the zest of the orange and add to the salad. Cut away the peel and pith from the orange and cut out the segments from between the membranes; add to the salad and toss to combine.

For the dressing, whisk the ingredients together in a bowl and season with salt and pepper.

Add half of the dressing to the asparagus salad and toss lightly. Taste and add more seasoning if required.

Season the fish all over with salt and pepper, then lay on the grill tray. Place under the grill for three minutes, then turn the fillets over and cook the other side for three minutes.

To serve, share most of the asparagus salad between four warmed plates. Place a grilled fish fillet on top, arrange the remaining salad on the fish and drizzle over the reserved dressing. Serve immediately.

Nathan Outlaw’s Everyday Seafood, with photography by David Loftus, is published by Quadrille, priced £20.