Tidings of good cheer
At White House dinners, Richard Nixon secretly sipped Château Margaux while serving cheap wine to guests. Though I wouldn’t condone such inhospitable behaviour, I can see his point. Why waste good stuff on those who won’t appreciate it and probably secretly hate you? (I’m imagining Nixon’s reasoning here; I don’t assume that my guests hate me.)
Which is why, this time of year, it’s important to have two sorts of wine in the house: the quality stuff to serve to close friends and family, and cheaper stuff for everybody else. Now, if you don’t want to be like Nixon, you’ll have to drink the less-good stuff, too, so it’s important that it’s still good quality. I’ve picked a dozen wines to drink across the festive period, some to share with the happy few and some to open when Steve from accounts comes over.
Over Christmas and New Year, you are not going to find a wine that melds seamlessly with turkey, Coronation chicken, sausage rolls, ham and Brussels sprouts, so I wouldn’t even try. Just make sure the wine, like your turkey, is of impeccable quality and not overcooked.
I’m a traditionalist at heart, so I normally choose a selection of old world classics – claret and white burgundy with big meals, champagne or sherry before, and port afterwards. This year, however, I’ve gone a bit mad. Instead of claret, I’m going to have a South African Cabernet Sauvignon and, instead of the usual Burgundy, an Australian Chardonnay. And madder still, instead of champagne, we’re going to have a sparkling wine from England. Crazy!
For my father, who wouldn’t approve of a colonial wine at lunch, there’s some red Burgundy. Also in the case are some party wines, a Beaujolais – the ultimate leftover wine – and a Riesling, as I like to start drinking early at Christmas and low alcohol makes this the perfect 11am opening-presents wine.
Oldenburg Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, £22.60, Berry Bros: www.bbr.com
Like a particularly rich claret, smells of leather and blackcurrants, powerful but with grace.
Moss Wood Chardonnay 2010, £19.95: www.jeroboams.co.uk
This Australian Chardonnay combines the steeliness of a Grand Cru Chablis with the creaminess of a Puligny-Montrachet.
St Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2011, £14.65, The WineBarn: www.winebarn.co.uk
Just off dry, with distinct spicy notes and an electric charge of acidity.
Chorey lès Beaune La Pièce de Chapitre Tollot-Beaut 2010, £20.28, Goedhuis: www.goedhuis.com
A fruity, mediumbodied red Burgundy to cheer up grumpy grandpas.
Beaujolais-Villages, Château du Souzy, Signe Vignerons 2010, £9.95: www.slurp.co.uk
One to have with cold sausages.
Sandeman Twenty Years Old Tawny Port, £29.50: www.leaandsandeman.co.uk
Wonderfully nutty and mellow, it will make you want to linger over Stilton even if you’re sitting next to the leastfavourite in-law.
Mazanilla Delicioso Valdespino, £13.95: www.slurp.co.uk
A great pick-me-up when you feel yourself flagging.
Nyetimber 2008, £29.99, Waitrose: www.waitrose.com
Impeccably elegant, English fizz, very dry and appley with the tiniest, gentlest little bubbles.
Waitrose Fino Sherry, £6.49: www.waitrose.com
Don’t overlook supermarket ownlabel sherry – it can be, like this one, of exceptional quality.
Perfect for leaving out for Santa. Waitrose Southern French Grenache 2011, £7.99: www.waitrose.com
Dry, light-bodied red with flavours of raspberry and herbs.
Cava Condesa Blanco Brut NV, £7.50, Oddbins: www.oddbins.co.uk
Cheap, dry and delicious. If you’re having a party, then this is the wine for you.
Paul Mas Estate ‘Nicole Vineyard’ Syrah Viognier, £8.99, Majestic: www.majestic.co.uk
Peachy, mediumbodied with a twist of bitter almonds at the end.
Which is why, this time of year, it’s important to have two sorts of wine in the house: the quality stuff to serve to close friends and family, and cheaper stuff for everybody else. Now, if you don’t want to be like Nixon, you’ll have to drink the less-good stuff, too, so it’s important that it’s still good quality. I’ve picked a dozen wines to drink across the festive period, some to share with the happy few and some to open when Steve from accounts comes over.
Over Christmas and New Year, you are not going to find a wine that melds seamlessly with turkey, Coronation chicken, sausage rolls, ham and Brussels sprouts, so I wouldn’t even try. Just make sure the wine, like your turkey, is of impeccable quality and not overcooked.
I’m a traditionalist at heart, so I normally choose a selection of old world classics – claret and white burgundy with big meals, champagne or sherry before, and port afterwards. This year, however, I’ve gone a bit mad. Instead of claret, I’m going to have a South African Cabernet Sauvignon and, instead of the usual Burgundy, an Australian Chardonnay. And madder still, instead of champagne, we’re going to have a sparkling wine from England. Crazy!
For my father, who wouldn’t approve of a colonial wine at lunch, there’s some red Burgundy. Also in the case are some party wines, a Beaujolais – the ultimate leftover wine – and a Riesling, as I like to start drinking early at Christmas and low alcohol makes this the perfect 11am opening-presents wine.
Oldenburg Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, £22.60, Berry Bros: www.bbr.com
Like a particularly rich claret, smells of leather and blackcurrants, powerful but with grace.
Moss Wood Chardonnay 2010, £19.95: www.jeroboams.co.uk
This Australian Chardonnay combines the steeliness of a Grand Cru Chablis with the creaminess of a Puligny-Montrachet.
St Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2011, £14.65, The WineBarn: www.winebarn.co.uk
Just off dry, with distinct spicy notes and an electric charge of acidity.
Chorey lès Beaune La Pièce de Chapitre Tollot-Beaut 2010, £20.28, Goedhuis: www.goedhuis.com
A fruity, mediumbodied red Burgundy to cheer up grumpy grandpas.
Beaujolais-Villages, Château du Souzy, Signe Vignerons 2010, £9.95: www.slurp.co.uk
One to have with cold sausages.
Sandeman Twenty Years Old Tawny Port, £29.50: www.leaandsandeman.co.uk
Wonderfully nutty and mellow, it will make you want to linger over Stilton even if you’re sitting next to the leastfavourite in-law.
Mazanilla Delicioso Valdespino, £13.95: www.slurp.co.uk
A great pick-me-up when you feel yourself flagging.
Nyetimber 2008, £29.99, Waitrose: www.waitrose.com
Impeccably elegant, English fizz, very dry and appley with the tiniest, gentlest little bubbles.
Waitrose Fino Sherry, £6.49: www.waitrose.com
Don’t overlook supermarket ownlabel sherry – it can be, like this one, of exceptional quality.
Perfect for leaving out for Santa. Waitrose Southern French Grenache 2011, £7.99: www.waitrose.com
Dry, light-bodied red with flavours of raspberry and herbs.
Cava Condesa Blanco Brut NV, £7.50, Oddbins: www.oddbins.co.uk
Cheap, dry and delicious. If you’re having a party, then this is the wine for you.
Paul Mas Estate ‘Nicole Vineyard’ Syrah Viognier, £8.99, Majestic: www.majestic.co.uk
Peachy, mediumbodied with a twist of bitter almonds at the end.