Tiers of joy

You’ve got the dress, decided who’s going to be a bridesmaid and argued over the guest list. What’s next? The cake…

Fruitcake or sponge, chocolate or vanilla? Even cheese has been the trend for wedding cakes recently. But if you go for cheese, what do you do about saving the smallest tier for the christening? Digging a piece of Stilton out of the freezer to celebrate the arrival of one's firstborn is, frankly, depressing. So it's great to hear that Fortnum & Mason, recently seen heaping hampers on to a trio of royal ladies, is leaping to the rescue with a bespoke wedding-cake service.

 As you'd expect, Fortnums is at the top end of wedding-cake production. Its range features six designs, each inspired by the store itself and also by romantic 18thcentury artefacts. The designs include a Georgian Lace cake, which can incorporate a motif from the bride's dress; a Cameo cake that echoes Queen Charlotte's penchant for cameos and silhouettes (you can feature the happy couple on the cake, or entwine their initials in sugar piping); and a Ruffle cake, which alludes to garters and petticoats and is topped with sugary flowers. The sleek lines of the stripy Georgian porcelain cake owe their design to yet another of Queen Charlotte's fancies: Wedgwood and Jasper ware porcelain.

 

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 These cakes can be made in almost any flavour – you can even create your own favourite taste – from lemon, vanilla and chocolate, to Sandringham coffee, fruitcake and carrot. The store holds cake tastings, accompanied by champagne, tea and a sketch of your final design (the price of tea is offset against the final purchase). Bespoke cakes start at £500.

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 Fiona Cairns, the Leicestershire-based baking company that made the cake for last year's Royal Wedding – a magnificent confection, which was delivered to the reception in its own high-security van – has now launched a bespoke service for made-to-order wedding and celebration cakes. Bespoke designs start at £500. The company also supplies Waitrose with everything from cupcakes to celebration cakes.

 

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A slightly more down-to-earth, though still pretty classy, handmade wedding cake can be found at Marks & Spencer. The range includes a three-tiered chocolate cake (£199); a button cake, which can be made from plain or chocolate sponge, fruitcake or a mixture of all three (£199– £219); and the Meadow fruitcake, inspired by fields of summer flowers (£229–£249). On 15 May, Marks & Spencer is adding four new designs to its range, including an upside-down wedding cake, all under £250. These will be available online.