Wines of the week: 20 July

My father has an aversion to Beaujolais. My favourite trick to play on him is to give him a glass of good aged Morgon, one of the best villages in the region, and then ask him to guess what it is. He normally loves it, thinking that it's red Burgundy. That's the thing about Beaujolais, there is the light, flippant stuff that my dear old dad despises, but there are also some wines with power and finesse; there are even some good white wines.

Beaujolais, L' Ancien, Jean-Paul Brun 2010, £9.95, The Wine Society: www.thewinesociety.com

There's a distinct smell of raspberries and then, in the mouth, it's light and juicy, but with real depth of flavour. It manages to be a serious wine that's also lots of fun; only Beaujolais produces wine like this.

Morgon, Domaine Georges Descombes 2011, £15.80, The Sampler: www.thesampler.co.uk

There's lots of tannin, acidity and cherry fruit in here – this is grown-up Beaujolais. Really delicious now, with food, but keep it for five years and it will be just the sort of thing to trick my dad.

Beaujolais Blanc, Cuvée Marguerite, Château Thivin 2011, £13.54, Christopher Piper Wines: www.christopherpiperwines.co.uk

This is white Burgundy in all but name. Made from Chardonnay, it smells of fresh hay and is crisp, with a lovely roundness and length.

Beaujolais Villages Blanc, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Arnaud Aucoeur 2011, £10.95, Yapp Brothers: www.yapp.co.uk

Smells of wet rocks, and Chablis-like on the nose; in the mouth, there is apple-like fruit, some nuttiness and excellent balance. Stylish stuff. For something this good from Burgundy, you'd pay a lot more.

Correction: last week we stated that the Château du Petit Thouars was a 2005 vintage; it should read 2008.