Review: Clos Maggiore
The epithet ‘London’s Most Romantic Restaurant’ is quite an accolade to live upto. But dining at Clos Maggiore, the Covent Garden restaurant which has won a plethora of such awards, it is easy to see why it is thus honoured.
Yes, there is dim lighting, pretty foliage and softly-spoken waiters galore. But – and this is not as obvious as it sounds - it undoubtedly the food which cinched the romance deal. Quite simply, the dishes arouse so much pleasure that you could not fail to delight in your partner’s company.
The restaurant is touted as French but the menu has a varied, vaguely European feel. Our starters included delights such as crab & marjoram remoulade (delicate and creamy) and Sicilian fig & aubergine caponata (textured and sweet). My almond crusted trout exemplified the style of their main courses – fancy but not fussy, and cooked to perfection. The braised shoulder of lamb enjoyed by my guest was not hugely portioned but didn’t need to be; the meat was rich and encased by just the right amount of crispy skin.
Side orders are not to be skimped on here. The truffle mash almost stole the show, while the creamy wilted spinach managed to make a marvellously opulent dish out of healthy greenery.
As you would expect from any romance establishment, the wine list (or book) at Clos Maggiore is something to behold. Opting to enjoy wine by the glass is the way to go here and Daniel, the charming sommelier, is happy to make personal recommendations. Notable quaffs include the green yet fruity Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc (2011), and the Zind Humbrecht Chardonnay/Auxerrios (2008) which was a complex and refreshing accompaniment to the trout.
With so much rich food literally and figuratively under your belt, pudding really isn’t necessary, but that’s hardly the point. Our Eton Mess was presented with creative flair (the meringue sitting like a flirty lady top of the cream), while the dark Valrhona chocolate & pistachio dôme, although it could have done with a touch more pistachio, was meltingly good.
The sweet macaroons and lavender chocolates are the final hurrah towards decadence. With the tone for indulgence is well and truly set, it’s upto you how you spend the rest of your evening.