Review: The Factory House

A refuge for a modern day industrialist?
It’s immediately apparent that an awful lot of effort has gone into making The Factory House a destination restaurant. From the clocking in cards at the entrance to the menus masquerading as broadsheets, each element is designed to give an experience worth talking about.

This faux industrialism runs the risk of being gimmicky, but the place is so beautifully appointed that all these little touches err on the right side of novelty. A basement restaurant, it is cosy and cosseted inside, a gentlemanly blend of wooden panelling, leather covered seats and carefully displayed wine bottles.

My friend and I visited on a Thursday night and bar a large table of suited types, that place was surprisingly quiet. The staff dash around quickly (with the air of a busy industrialist, perhaps) which helps to create a bit of an atmosphere but still, one couldn’t help but feel such a place is at its best when packed to the rafters (or in this case, exposed plumbing).
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We commenced our meal with a couple of cocktails which were tasty, if a little meagre on measure. Mine (a variation on a Negroni) included a stalk of thyme – fresh herbs and/or flowers in drinks are always a sign of an establishment trying to impress. Our starters arrived quickly and were artfully arranged on pristine white plates which is again, a sign of a place keen to impress. My trout was flaky and flavoursome, while my friend’s scallops can be judged by her declaration, on her last mouthful, that ‘I don’t want this dish to end.’

After such a promising start, our mains were a little less impressive. The ketchup bottle was whipped out before the plates, which is a confusing addition when the place has hitherto presented itself as more of a fine-dining establishment. Still, my friend is a firm condiment person, so it was a welcome token. My lamb was fragrant, if a tad overcooked, and doused in a tangy, salty sauce. My friend’s grouse was similar – pleasing without being rave-worthy. However, our side dishes of creamed cabbage and fries were perfectly executed and plentiful.

The puddings were a return to form, with a creamy dark chocolate and hazelnut truffle cake and a rich sticky toffee pudding with an enormous scoop of clotted cream. Definitely worth indulging. The wine list at The Factory House is extensive (available by the glass, carafe or bottle), and would take someone much more au fait than myself to fully appreciate. We shared a bottle of Chilean Merlot during our meal which was a surprisingly light red, bursting with fruity notes.
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We lingered a while after eating, watching ties loosen, jackets come off and people generally relaxing into a good time. The Factory House has been open since last October and it seems to still be warming up. It’s the sort of place you’d duck into for a drink, be seduced by the informed ‘Imbibing’ menu and end up staying for a bite to eat. It’s one to watch – like any factory, it’s constantly perfecting its product.

www.thefactoryhouse.co.uk