Wines of the week: May 10

I’m writing this column from Los Angeles where the weather is gorgeous. I’m combining a visit to the in-laws with some research on behalf of readers of The Lady. Like me, you probably think of Californian wine as either expensive Cabernet Sauvignons from the Napa Valley, drunk by film producers; or bargain-basement-branded wines drunk by students. But there’s change in the air. California now produces some of the most joyfully drinkable wines in the world. Rather than using Bordeaux grapes, they’re created from Rhône varieties such as Grenache and Syrah, but the style owes more to Burgundy or Beaujolais than the heat of Southern France. The alcohol is fairly low and the emphasis is on fragrance. The locals like them so much that most of the wines never leave the country. They’re not that expensive, $20 to $30 (£12 to £20) a bottle, but I can’t find anything good below £10, which is why I’ve put a French wine in at the end. If California starts making good wine at this price, I’ll emigrate.

Qupe Central Coast Syrah 2010, £19: www.bottleapostle.com
This winery makes some of the most Burgundiantasting Syrah in Santa Barbara – just the thing to drink after a long day with your father-in-law.

Birichino Grenache Vieilles Vignes 2010, £19.56: www.richardgrangerwines.co.uk
Smells of raspberries with a hint of smoke; the taste is bone dry but with a brightness that is distinctively Californian.

J Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, £12.50: www.thewinesociety.com
An elegant wine at a silly price, this smells of the pine forests of Paso Robles, with great structure and length.

Domaine Haut-Lirou Pic Saint-Loup 2010, £7.99 when you buy two bottles: www.majestic.co.uk
Tastes of herbs, fruit and olives, and, if you leave it open for a few hours, there’s some real complexity.