Wines Of The Week: 31 May

Nobody does the hospitality thing as well as the Champenois. They took a sour, unpredictable wine from Northern France and conquered the world not only by creating a consistent fizz but through clever marketing. Many of those grand old names – Krug, Roederer and Bollinger – were German salesmen not French landowners. They built links with their markets, first the aristocracy in Russia and later the middle classes across the Channel. Champagne was a reaction to the tastes of the English market in the late 19th century. Nobody knows this better than Pol Roger. The house was founded in 1849 by Pol Roger but it was his son, Maurice, who understood where the main market for his product lay. He visited London and sold his wine to hotels and later the Royal Family. This entente cordiale was cemented when Winston Churchill became the house’s most high-profile fan. It is still a family-owned business. Perhaps because of this, the hospitality seems warmer than some of their rivals, though the bottom line is to promote their brand. It helps that the wines are always superb.

Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2000, £54: www.thewinesociety.com
All Chardonnay, initially a little reticent, austere almost, and then after a couple of sips I started to notice quite how beautiful it is.

Pol Roger 2002, £56.50: www.bbr.com
In contrast this 2002, a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, is like scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream.

Pol Roger Rosé 2004, £65: www.thewinesociety.com
Rich, meaty, savoury and luxurious: one of best rosés around.

Pol Roger Reservé NV, £32: www.majestic.co.uk
Some of the magic at an almost everyday price.