Review: Le Coq

Tuck into chicken at this impressive Islington eatery
If you feel like chicken tonight, then eschew the ubiquitous Nando’s and head for Islington’s Le Coq, the newly-minted rotisserie chicken restaurant. The brainchild of sisters Sanja and Ana Morris, Le Coq is a cosy place that could serve both the post-work crowd in search of an affordable and speedy meal and those looking to spend a bit of time over their food. The sisters have obviously hit upon a winning formula, because Le Coq, barely a month after its opening, is rammed full of happy-looking customers, which, in foodie Islington, is a sure sign of both quality and quantity.
 
And you won’t be disappointed with either. The chickens, slowly roasting in the open kitchen, have had a happy, free-range life on a farm in Sutton Hoo, Suffolk and this comes through in the succulent, plump portions we wolf down, together with a plate of red peppers, sautéed potatoes and marjoram. The tarragon mayonnaise was a lovely touch.
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The rest of the menu is simple, seasonal and to the point. There are two options – two courses for £16 or three for £20. We try both starters (Jerusalem artichoke and sage – a delicate appetizer; and clams – a good dash of chilli gave them an unexpected kick), the chicken (that comes just the one way) and a side of perfectly crunchy potatoes roasted in the dripping chicken juices.

For dessert, I recommend bypassing the tart and trying the smooth, almost mousse-like sorbet – this time it was blueberry, its tangy flavour refreshing after the rich roast chicken dinner.
 
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The starters and deserts change weekly and on Sundays there are other roasts on offer – suckling pig, beef shank or whole sea bass. To make life simple, Le Coq offers around a dozen wines and I was glad to see my favourite dry white, Picpoul de Pinet, served by the glass. The only thing we struggled with was the smallish print on the menu boards that were nailed to the wall above our heads, but the very helpful staff obligingly read everything out for us. All in all, Le Coq’s offering is easy on the eye and definitely very easy on the stomach.
 
www.le-coq.co.uk