Festive tipple timeline
The twin themes of this year’s festive column are simplicity and duplicity. In the past I recommended expensive wines and then cheaper stuff for when people you don’t like come over. I don’t think that is how most of us do Christmas, so I’ve chosen wines for all occasions and all guests. That’s the simplicity side taken care of. The duplicity part comes because all the wines I have chosen look and taste a lot more expensive than they actually are. The important thing is not to let on how little you’ve spent. If someone comments on how much they must have cost, wave airily and say, ‘You’re worth it.’ With the big chains’ wines, it’s best to check online – they often have big discounts before Christmas.
Cava is a wine that rarely fails to make me yawn. Not this one! It’s the best budget fizz I’ve had all year. There’s a whiff of pastry and then lots of fine bubbles. Best of all, it still has a gentleness, which means you can drink it all night.
Many people think they don’t like Chardonnay, but, in fact, they’re just sick of drinking the oversweet, overoaked stuff associated with Bridget Jones. They should try this cool climate Chilean one, which is racy, citric and refreshing.
One for the sherry a cionado. It has all the refreshing power of a good no, such as Tio Pepe, but with a richness and meatiness that reminded me a little of roast pork. I would drink it before the meal with olives and almonds to sharpen my carnivorous appetite.
The Jura is famed for Vin Jaune, which tastes a bit like a farmhouse sherry. It also makes more conventional wines that taste like white Burgundy. This one is quite buttery, but with a good jolt of acidity and a distinct oral note.
German Pinot Noir is not only surprisingly good; it’s also fashionable and expensive. (I’m not sure how M&S does this for the price.) There’s some proper Pinot fragrance, ripe fruit and, most importantly, no jam whatsoever. There’s even a nice herbal quality.
A great one to impress wine bores. This smells brambly with some smoke and spice. It’s sweet, but the fruit tastes fresh and crunchy. There’s real concentration here; you could age it, but it’s so good now with a nice piece of Stilton.
Ignore all those supermarket champagne deals. If you’re not concerned with brands, this is the one to go for. This champagne smells of apples with lemons and nuts on the palate, and has a creamy texture.
Tassinaia Castello del Terriccio 2007, £23.95, Lea & Sandeman: www.leaandsandeman.co.uk
A blend of Cabernet, Merlot and a little Sangiovese, there’s a whi of pencil shavings, a hint of co ee and some lovely ripe fruit. It’s drinking nicely now, but I’d decant to let the tannins soften. A wine so grown up it can end long-running family feuds.
1 WHEN THE GUESTS ARRIVE
Segura Viudas for Marks & Spencer Cava Brut 2010, £13.99: www.marksandspencer.comCava is a wine that rarely fails to make me yawn. Not this one! It’s the best budget fizz I’ve had all year. There’s a whiff of pastry and then lots of fine bubbles. Best of all, it still has a gentleness, which means you can drink it all night.
2 WHEN YOU NEED A TOP-UP
De Martino Chardonnay Legado 2011, £8.50, The Wine Society: www.thewinesociety.comMany people think they don’t like Chardonnay, but, in fact, they’re just sick of drinking the oversweet, overoaked stuff associated with Bridget Jones. They should try this cool climate Chilean one, which is racy, citric and refreshing.
3 WHEN DINNER’S COOKING
Pedro’s Almacenista Selection Fino, £8.99: www.majestic.co.ukOne for the sherry a cionado. It has all the refreshing power of a good no, such as Tio Pepe, but with a richness and meatiness that reminded me a little of roast pork. I would drink it before the meal with olives and almonds to sharpen my carnivorous appetite.
4 WHEN THE STARTER’S SERVED
Domaine Grand Chardonnay Côtes du Jura 2011, £13.99, Berry Bros: www.bbr.comThe Jura is famed for Vin Jaune, which tastes a bit like a farmhouse sherry. It also makes more conventional wines that taste like white Burgundy. This one is quite buttery, but with a good jolt of acidity and a distinct oral note.
5 WHEN THE TURKEY’S CARVED
Palataia Pinot Noir 2012, £8.99: www.marksandspencer.comGerman Pinot Noir is not only surprisingly good; it’s also fashionable and expensive. (I’m not sure how M&S does this for the price.) There’s some proper Pinot fragrance, ripe fruit and, most importantly, no jam whatsoever. There’s even a nice herbal quality.
6 WHEN THE FIRE’S LIT
Quinta do Noval Late Bottled Vintage Unfiltered Port 2007: www.thedrinkshop.com has 2007, £16.94; Tesco has 2005, £15.79A great one to impress wine bores. This smells brambly with some smoke and spice. It’s sweet, but the fruit tastes fresh and crunchy. There’s real concentration here; you could age it, but it’s so good now with a nice piece of Stilton.
7 WHEN THE CLOCK STRIKES TWELVE
Waitrose Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut NV, £24.99: www.waitrosedirect.comIgnore all those supermarket champagne deals. If you’re not concerned with brands, this is the one to go for. This champagne smells of apples with lemons and nuts on the palate, and has a creamy texture.
8 WHEN YOU DESERVE A TREAT
Tassinaia Castello del Terriccio 2007, £23.95, Lea & Sandeman: www.leaandsandeman.co.uk A blend of Cabernet, Merlot and a little Sangiovese, there’s a whi of pencil shavings, a hint of co ee and some lovely ripe fruit. It’s drinking nicely now, but I’d decant to let the tannins soften. A wine so grown up it can end long-running family feuds.