Review: Diciannove

A little slice of Italy in the City
When Diciannove launched back in September, they had the biggest round of parmesan I have ever seen. Sharply-dressed waiters were hacking into it, distributing the salty, grainy slabs to eager party-goers. It was at once aesthetically and gastronomically pleasing, and had a delightful whiff of Roman opulence about it. Visiting the Italian restaurant some months later, I was keen to see if this sumptuous vibe had remained.

Décor wise, it is well put-together, if a little lacking in personality. Trendy light fittings hang over weighty tables, and the walls are lined with paper pretending to be metallic tiles. It is all very slick but perhaps more reminiscent of a boardroom than a Tuscan dining room. Situated in the Crowne Plaza hotel near Blackfriars, Diciannove is perfectly placed for many a business lunch, which may also contribute to its slightly corporate design.

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The furnishings may be pleasant yet forgettable – the food is anything but. Far from the usual pizza/pasta combos proliferated at chain restaurants, the Diciannove menu (although not enormous) demonstrates Executive Chef Alessandro Bay’s enthusiasm for real Italian cuisine. Starter-wise, the burrata reignited the opulent sense of the launch party. Cream literally gushed from the firm mozzarella, and tasted all the more delicious when mopped up with the homemade focaccia. My friend’s gnocchi was unusual but all the better for it. More akin to deconstructed tortellini, the spinach and fresh pasta were almost woven together, but disintegrated marvellously in the mouth.

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Unlike many an Italian when the extent of the meat offering is pepperoni on the pizza, Diciannove have a good selection of hearty mains. My pork belly was pan-fried to perfection – a crispy skin topped a particularly unctuous layer of fat, which in turn gave way to tender meat. It’s decadence was topped off with fried pancetta and fresh almonds. My friend’s beef was equally rich, equally tender, and accompanied by a deceptively indulgent serving of polenta (cooked with milk, so it is both smooth and creamy).

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The wine selection, like the menu, is not enormous but is well thought-out. Italian bottles naturally dominate the list, with lots of bottle in the £30 - £40 range. We shared a bottle of Castellare Chianti Classico DOCG, which was weighty and fairly tannic, so a good recommendation to accompany the meat. We also indulged in an Espresso martini post-meal – enthusiastically made, they are worth trying.

Dessert came in the form of a trio of tasters. If you have sampled the bread basket with the vinegar and oils, the generously-sized starters, the mains with an ample side or two, plus wine, you are probably too full by this point, but that swiftly becomes irrelevant. The boozy tiramisu and the sweet chocolate mousse really stood out, and are best enjoyed when eaten slowly with teaspoons.

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The restaurant was not especially busy for a Thursday night, but the attentive and animated waiters helped to create a jovial atmosphere. Diciannove is certainly worth having in your restaurant black book as a bit of an unsung hero – don’t be mistaken in thinking it the usual polished-yet-prosaic City restaurant, because it’s food is to be marvelled at (and it’s not just the parmesan).

www.diciannove19.com