Scenes of last tokyo

By the early 20th century the Westernisation of Japan was impacting on Tokyo’s architecture and fashion. Though many residents continued to cling to tradition, plenty more embraced the new styles with an open mind and a willingness to, if not blend cultures, at least foster a degree of co-existence.

Part of this growing sophistication was the sosaku hanga (creative print) movement. Japanese artists’ traditional printing methods involved a division of labour between artist, carver, printer and publisher. In contrast, each creative print artist – motivated by selfexpression – designed, cut and printed his own work.

With much of the city destroyed by Second World War air raids, the later publication of a series of woodblock prints highlighted views of famous Tokyo landmarks as they were prior to the conflict. Not that artists limited their output to the indigenous market. US soldiers stationed in the country were eager to take home mementos, and by producing prints with both English and Japanese titles, creative print artists showed a flair for marketing that matched their artistry.

The woodblock prints in this exhibition were published shortly after the war’s end (some think the collection was originally named Scenes Of Lost Tokyo) and are by nine leading artists. They portray a sense of nostalgia – several designs include sites with imperial connections. They also reveal an artistic dialogue between Japan and the US.

Tokyo Station was designed by Tatsuno Kingo, one of Japan’s first great modern architects. The art deco creation was severely damaged in 1945, but Onchi Koshiro’s print celebrates the building in all its pre-war glory.

Other subjects include Tokyo’s zoo and oldest temple, the latter print created by Saito Kiyoshi, who trained as a Western-style oil painter. His designs were popular among foreigners, making him one of the few print artists to make a living from his work.

One of the most charming images, however, is Night At Ginza. A vivid palette of bright pink and blue adds an element of frivolity to this portrayal of the district in the 1920s, when it was the equivalent of Fifth Avenue. Here modern girls (moga) and modern boys (mobo) with their Western fashions and hairstyles bustle alongside a woman in a traditional kimono ensemble, the cropping of the figures enticing the onlooker into the scene.

By celebrating this movement, the Ashmolean draws attention to a key part of Japan’s history. In doing so, it highlights a fusion of cultures while showcasing beautiful and captivating prints.

Until 5 June at the Ashmolean Museum, Beaumont Street, Oxford: 01865-278000, www.ashmolean.org