Wines of the week: August 24

Marketing is inventing a problem and then solving it. I can’t remember where this comes from, but I was reminded of it when I received bumf from a new online wine merchant called Ten Green Bottles. It had promised me an ‘innovative concept’ in wine retailing. Apparently other wine merchants are condescending to their customers. Some are, but they are rare; the ones I visit are some of the friendliest shops in the country. Ten Green Bottles claims that other merchants ignore variations in vintage; supermarkets do, but proper merchants don’t. The company’s final unique selling point (excuse the marketing jargon) is that it stocks a limited range: 10 red, 10 white, 10 rosé, 10 sparkling and 10 fortified, sweet or distilled. This is unusual and the wines are unusually good, too. So ignore the hype and enjoy the wines.

Urabain, Navarra 2011, £9.50

A red that gets better with each sip. It’s very dry, fragrant and well balanced, without a trace of jam.

Sancerre Rouge, Terres Blanches, Domaine Thomas & Fils 2010, £16

Red Sancerre, like Burgundy, is made from Pinot Noir: this is normally where the resemblance ends – it tends to be very light, but this one has heft to it. It smells of brambles, raspberries and a discreet oaky toast, and there’s real intensity in the mouth.

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Domaine de la Grenaudière 2010, £9

Muscadet is unfashionable, which makes it good value for money. This one is crisp with a nutty finish. Just the thing to drink with fish.

Albariño, Mar de Envero, Rías Baixas 2010, £16

A world away from supermarket Albariño, this smells floral, with some spiciness and tastes of green apples; dry, invigorating and distinctive.

All wines from www.tengreenbottles.com